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Stories

Reported narratives from journeys taken at length: the ferry crew, the seed keeper, the border town pharmacist, the guide who stopped guiding. Each story reaches a place through the people living in it, with their work, wages and words on the record. For readers who prefer travel writing that reports rather than admires.

Long-form reporting from the road, told through the people met along it: their work, their languages, and what a short visit never stays to see.

The welcome that keeps the Camino's shelters open

The welcome that keeps the Camino's shelters open

Long before the pilgrim offices counted their millions, the Camino de Santiago ran on hospitaleros — hosts who staff its donativo shelters for nothing, in a tradition of welcome that is roughly nine hundred years old.

The last keepers of the Great Lakes lights

The last keepers of the Great Lakes lights

Automation retired the resident keeper from nearly every Great Lakes lighthouse by the late 1970s, and a quiet corps of volunteers and local societies now keeps the lamps in trust for the towns that grew up around them.